Now it is better aimed. The PLA it can print at 210-215 ° while for the speed 35-40 mm / s. With these settings it prints well, but depends on the quality of the PLA. Well, for a base tune, grab a PLA profile you know works for you – or simply your slicer’s default profile – then reduce the part cooling fan speed a bit, 20 to 50% work well on most of my printers and adjust the temperature to match what your filament manufacturer suggests. I don't have a dii cooler with a radial fan right now though. Most items in this menu are editable values. The "surround" model used in the above tests has more of a downward aim (less towards the tip of the nozzle) with less focused direction applied. 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. Raise3D Premium PLA_TDS Jun.2019 Version 4.0 Recommended Printing Conditions1 Parameter Recommended Setting Nozzle temperature (°C ) 190 - 220 Recommended build surface BuildTak®, Blue Tap Build plate temperature (°C ) 40 - 55 Model cooling fan Turned on Printing speed (mm/s) 50 - 70 Raft separation distance (mm) 0.1 - 0.2 I don't have a perfect side-view with me on this PC. Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post. With a radial fan the temperature dropped to 160 almost immediately! To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. If you’re using a standard E3D V6 HotEnd* , you can reliably process a maximum of 847 cubic millimeters of PLA per minute. I'm pretty satisfied with the improvements obtained by reducing the fan speed and the quality of the suspended structures thankfully to the addition of the support interface and the extra distance: not the easiest supports to remove, but definitely the best aesthetic result so far. As with temperature, the best speed for the object … It's also worth noting that different layer heights will influence overhangs (just like bridging). Fan Full on at Height: .5mm Speed Min: 35% Speed Max: 75% Minimum Speed: 10mm/s Cool Head Lift: unchecked (unless needed for tiny complex sections) We only need to consider two factors here. Learn how to find the perfect print speed settings for PLA and more materials! Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s; Printing Temperature: 200 °C; Speed: 50 mm/s; Bed Temperature: 60 °C; Retraction: 6 mm @ 25 mm/s; Layer height: 0.12 mm; Initial Fan Speed: 0%; Infill: 20%; PETG Settings. This is why the speed may be different for different materials. $89.95. It can't shape flow nearly as effectively as the Diii, which better takes fluid dynamics into account. Is this the main print head fans, or an additional? Up to 230 when printing at larger layer heights. Print settings, such as printing temperature, speed, bed adhesion, and extrusion rates will be very similar to the normal settings used for the base material that the fibers were added to (for example, the stock PLA settings would be a good starting point for PLA … Yeah, for me it wasn't that the cooler (Cobra in this case) couldn't go full power but at full power within 15mm of the bed it would significantly drop the nozzle temp because the air was bouncing off the bed. Initial speed: 10m/s; Wall Acceleration: 300; Print speed: 25m/s; PLA Retraction Settings. Whether it matters if it's dead on or just a few desk fans positioned around the print is still up for debate I guess. This is a very wide range and you’ll need to e… I've had to really lower the part cooling speed for filaments like Ninja Armadillo (nylon alternative) and Sainsmart's TPU because of the latter. Very nice to see it is still greatly improved at full speed. I'm currently trying to figure out how to use this eSun Gold PLA that isn't working well, currently looking like 210 for the nozzle and 65 for the bed to get it to actually stick together and not delaminate, completely been guessing fan speed. There is a noticeable improvement in overhang quality with each increase in fan speed. Cobalt Blue Metallic PLA 3D … I'm running my dii cooler with a 40 mm high static pressure server fan from a 1u server. For the filament to expand it is necessary to put a certain amount of energy into the filament. This piqued my curiosity as to how much of a difference fan speed can make. I thought it redundant to test the difference between these setups. Print quality was not affected by the lower speed". Note that the 0.12mm layers curled enough to collide with the print head and cause layer shifting. I don't have any trouble maintaining print temperatures (more on that later), but some people here do. ; Use a cooling fan: a cooling fan makes a huge difference in quality, and prevents the plastic … Assuming nozzle size a… Temp sensors and hotends are not all created equal I', guessing. None of my testing was with the stock fan at all. When the print head fans are enabled, you can adjust certain parameters. With a lot of people mentioning running it between 25-40% fan speed, I often wondered what kind of difference there was between those results and 100%. Retraction: As the Ender 3 has a Bowden style setup, retraction settings are much higher. over just a bunch of straight-on directed air. Everyone knows that PLA likes fan cooling! Sticks better to PLA than ABS when used as a support material. I have a blower fan pointed at the print with a duct to keep the flow away from the hot end. I am one that has had issues with the DiiCooler cooling the nozzle. The only solution is to try, try and try again ! With my other mods, the overhang was still the most visibly problematic at faster speeds so I will be excited to see if I get decent quality prints when going faster using the Dii Cooler. I'm going to try those settings on this threaded leg and see what happens. 1 and 2 were already enough for me to maintain temps, but the extra insulation makes it even easier for my machine. Therefore Premium PLA is available on large spool sizes. The DiiiCooler (in my opinion at least) is a kind of hybrid between the "surround" and the "sharp nozzle." If you set your printing temperature a little on the high side of the acceptable range, then you can probably get away with higher printing speeds as well. Press J to jump to the feed. I suspect my DiiCooler is too high and cools off the nozzle - I've had to limit it to 50%. I'm getting a lot of strings of filament and I can see the nozzle is moving previous material is layed out as it's adding layers so leaving it all warped. When your nozzle is touching the bed, try to have your DiiiCooler about 2mm off the bed. Print at a low speed. Quick view Out of stock. Setting the print speed needs to take into consideration the temperature you’re printing with and the thickness of your filament. If you look at the last 2 pictures, this stuff was coming apart pretty easily printed at 195/55. The Tune menu is only available during active printing. I only wanted to look at whether any setting below 100% can be 'just as good' as 100%. Fan speed. August 6, 2018, 9:18pm #2. i would connect the fan to you’re arduino e.g motherboard, I use Simplify3D, and part of the advanced options seems to control the fan speed. PLA is also more rigid and “sticky” than ABS, so it’s less prone to warping. Most electronics and firmware allow the addition of a fan via a spare connector. Thus, it can result in two cases; the material does not get out of the nozzle as the nozzl… Flow and Efficiency as functions of Shaft Speed & PR /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing. 5KG Texas Size Spool Wood+ PLA printer filament 1.75 mm 11 lbs. I see a lot of recommended temperature settings for nozzle and the bed depending on the material but what about fan settings? I have since switched back to the stock cooler and stock fan for the time being. Fan Speed: 100% Best Practices These tips will help you reduce the chances of common 3D printing issues associated with PLA such as stringing, oozing, or under-extrusion. Other parameters, such as temperature and speed, can mitigate the need for cooling and most people definitely wouldn't print overhangs this extreme without supports. Here are some great tests on different shroud types. Unless someone is running a far more powerful blower, I find it hard to believe that decreasing the fan speed doesn't have any impact on print performance. My initial driver was to evaluate claims like "print quality was not affected by the lower speed [of the blower fan]." $17.95. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed. Add more insulation to your heat block if necessary. Have your minimum layer time set to about 35seconds so on smaller objects it'll slow down and give the print time to cool. We use cookies on our websites for a number of purposes, including analytics and performance, functionality and advertising. I printed the DiiCooler out of PLA and i'm thinking it has warped, but I do think it needs to be a bit lower than I had it anyways. Up next is PLA, or polylactic acid, another popular material used among the 3D printing fans. Improve this question. Edit I didn't include it in my post yesterday but I did prints at 50mm/s, 75mm/s and 100mm/s. If you don't want to read and just want the album, click here: http://imgur.com/a/dZa9Y. Warping – also known as curling – is a phenomenon that naturally happens in 3D printing and is the most common problem that 3D printers encounter. I'd use even more fan speed if I could. ... Best solutions for PLA cooling fan please. It's also worth noting that different layer heights will influence overhangs (just like bridging). For what it's worth, I am using a 12V 0.15A blower with a rated air flow of 4.21 CFM. At no point did I see a plateau in performance. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed, blowing a shitload of air straight at the printed area, pictures comparing it to the stock cooling setup. The performance gap between the 40mm stock axial fan and 50mm blower fans has been pretty thoroughly documented. For materials such as PLA, PETG, CPE 100, a layer fan can be used to help quickly solidify the layers. The diameter of the nozzles and the speed at which the extruder presses the PLA into the hot end are also decisive for setting the printing temperature. Each test print used identical slicer settings except for the fan speed. These can then be instructed with G-code, from Slic3r, to turn on or off as the model requires, and to rotate at different speeds. I've always printed PLA at 180 - 190. Flow & Efficiency as functions of Shaft Speed & R-line • Turbines: Corr. Reduce oozing: because of PLA’s fast flowing speed, oozing and stringing can occur, making prints look less polished.By optimizing your retraction settings you can mostly prevent this from happening, Simplify3D have a guide here for working on this in your 3D slicer. We also tried increasing and decreasing the extruder speed and the fan speed, but this also resulted in a less good filament. Add to Cart. I recently ran overhang tests to look at the efficacy of different fan speeds. Eco White PLA - 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm 1 kg 2.2 lbs. While some people hate how the DiiiCooler obstructs view of the nozzle, its performance is impressive enough that I can easily put up with that. We found that lower temperatures and higher temperatures had a bad effect on the extrusion of shredded PLA. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! A higher speed allows for better cooling and reduces oozing, but can also increase the shrinkage of the material. Note that the 0.12mm layers curled enough to collide with the print head and cause layer shifting. Brands of PLA have their recommended temperature settings on the spool. I had indeed been curious about some of this, especially after my post yesterday comparing the results from stock to Dii. It does seem like your initial driver was claims the blower is far better than stock, yet you never compared stock fan at 100%. I had mine tweaked to reach 100% by 15/20mm. Fortunately, these techniques are relatively simple and don’t require sophisticated equipment.… The amount of energy a filament can absorb during printing depends on the length of the hot-zone and the time it takes for the filament to pass through the hot-zone. It should also not cool the heater block of the hot-end so as not to force it to do more work and waste energy. Do you have a good side view of just how much the tip shows from under the cooler? Soft PLA However, printing PLA is usually good at any speed between 30mm to 90mm/sec. And for spooled filament, never let go of the loose end. I use 25-40% usually. Still, when it comes to a PLA part cooling fan I'll take the most I can get. I can see the nozzle is moving previous material is layed out as it's adding layers so leaving it all warped. As having an unleveled bed leads to deviation in the distance between the nozzle and the bed. Edit: I also don't really know if I should be changing printing speed or extruder speed, been leaving that default. ", "I print PLA with about 30% fan speed on a diicooler", "I have to keep my blower fans under 70 or it will really struggle to maintain temp or never reach target at all. I was running one with the stock fan (Maker Select), With that the temp would drop 5 or 10 degrees but I could compensate by having my initial temperature a little hotter. I would say lower your print temps. Still, when it comes to a PLA part cooling fan I'll take the most I can get. Here are a few quotes from users who run their blower fans at partial speed: "Are you using a radial blower fan with the Ciicooler? I can see the previous layer wiggling around as the new layer is being put on, which tells me it's too hot or not cooling fast enough. I can't throttle it at all though, because I have the i3 plus which is 24 volts, and the fan is a 12v fan, so I'm running it via one of those buck converters that is damn near ubiquitous on Aliexpress. When used with ABS as a support material, you should keet the PVA support VERY close (0.1mm) to the ABS surface and use high support density for the PVA. 3 Likes. Press J to jump to the feed. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are). Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. JohnKo. PVA used as a raft will stick well to tape. I've had problems like this at sizes 0.3 to 1/3 mm using an 0.4 mm nozzle even at my usual PLA temperature of 210, and can imagine it would be much worse at lower temperatures. Which is why I'm running the server fan. Cris. Follow You definitely want cooling from all angles. Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. Yum. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. My fan speed has always just been limited to 80% of maximum because I had 2 ducted fans and they were too much for the hot end to handle at 100%. 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. The air movement should aim for the nozzle tip, fl… (If you are running a far more powerful blower, please let me know so I can pick one up). I can't run mine at 100%. Increase your retraction length and you should get rid of the strings (too high a temp can also have some effect, so a light reduction could help). Run a PID tune with your bed at printing temp and the fan running at 100% so that your PID values reflect printing conditions. The first picture is supposed to have a straight slot in the middle, which is a part for the printer, totally unusable at the moment. Quick view Add to Cart. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, MP Maker Select 2.1, MP Select Mini, MP Mini Delta, S.T.E.V.E. I printed numerous copies of the ATOM 80 Degrees Overhang. Here's a very recent post from /u/DinnerMilk and the DiiiCooler page has pictures comparing it to the stock cooling setup. A thicker filament will take longer to heat up, and thus needs to be printed slower. I've always printed PLA at 180 - 190. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed. The best speed & temperature for PLA depends on what type of PLA you are using and what 3D printer you have, but generally you want to use a speed of 60mm/s, a nozzle temperature of 210°C and a heated bed temperature of 60°C. Why test this? You want as little of the air as possible hitting the hot end. http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests2. After a while, we slowly increased the temperatures and after that decreased the temperatures. I'm personally using that cooler with good results, largely because I find the dii/cii coolers to be less aesthetically pleasing, and also because I haven't seen any convincing evidence of their superiority over just a bunch of straight-on directed air. It would totally fit on the stock fan mount. Is a 50mm blower really so powerful that partial speeds are just as effective as full speed? Not sure on this specifically but I can say that before I got my radial fan I was seeing a ton of artifacts on the side of the print opposite of the stock fan. Strings can be reduced with greater retraction, but be careful not to retract too much. If you want to run your fan harder but have trouble maintaining hot end temp, I have some suggestions: Make sure the airflow is focused more towards the tip of the nozzle than the heat block. Mine is wrapped in two layers of ceramic fiber insulation, secured with kapton tape. I run my blower fan at 100% through a DiiiCooler for all PLA printing. I would say lower your print temps. Derived from corn and other renewable starches, this biodegradable material is both environmentally friendly and smells like sweet pancake syrup. Having used a Diii cooler with my mildly upgraded Maker select before going to the Titan V6 conversion with it's unidirectional cooler, I can say that a ton of air can help with PLA, but you still run into the problem of the side getting the air having better overhangs or if the part is thin/filament is flexible, the part actually getting pushed in the direction of airflow. Downside is that they sound like jet engines, and I wouldn't be surprised if they induced some sort of artifacting from vibration (or even gyroscopic progression). Strings can be reduced with greater retraction, but be careful not to retract too much. I can't print ABS at the time being, so i'm looking at other coolers. I can run a few prints if you'd like to see a comparison. It has 5 sections of increasing difficulty: 30°, 45°, 60°, 70°, and 80°. Also, avoid sharp bends and excessi… Fan speed in Slic3r is 100% with the fan disabled for the first 6 layers. I'm thinking about designing a fan shroud that accepts two 40 mm fans so I can wire them in series, since 24v fans are really hard to find, and I have a million 40mm fans sitting around. The second pic is a threaded piece of the first one which looks ok at first glance but the threads are horrible, same for the threads on the first one.
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